Understanding Sherry: Styles & Production
By Master Blender, Brandon McCraney
March 4, 2025
Alright, let me tell you about sherry. It’s not just some dusty bottle your grandma keeps in the back of the cupboard, though let’s be honest, some of it might be. But trust me, there’s a reason it’s having a bit of a moment, especially in the whiskey world. And as a whiskey blender, I’m all about what makes things taste good.
So, picture this: Southern Spain, hotter than a jalapeno in July. That’s where the magic happens, in the “Sherry Triangle.” These guys are serious about their grapes – Palomino, mostly. They’ve got this special soil, albariza, which is basically like grape heaven. Harvest time rolls around, everyone’s sweating, and they squish those grapes to get the juice – what they call “must.” Sounds a bit like a heavy metal band, but it’s just grape juice.
Then, the fermentation starts. Think of it like a grape party – the yeast is invited, and they’re having a blast turning sugar into booze. After that, things get interesting. They “fortify” the wine, which is a fancy way of saying they spike it with some extra alcohol. Like giving it a little pep in its step.
Now, the aging process… that’s where the real art comes in. They’ve got this crazy system called the solera. Imagine a pyramid of barrels, with the oldest wine at the bottom. They blend a little younger wine in with the older stuff, and it’s this whole beautiful, complicated dance. It’s like the wine’s been going to a really intense yoga class for years, getting more flexible and complex.
Some of these sherries, like Fino and Manzanilla, grow this layer of yeast on top, called “flor.” Sounds kind of gross, I know, like maybe you should call a doctor, but it actually protects the wine and gives it this awesome nutty, almost salty flavor. Then you’ve got Oloroso – that stuff ages without the flor, getting all dark and rich, like a leather armchair you’ve had for decades. And don’t even get me started on Palo Cortado. That’s the weird kid, starts out like a Fino, then the flor disappears, and it turns into something completely different. It’s like the wine equivalent of a surprise plot twist.
And then there’s PX. Sweet Jesus, PX. They basically sun-dry the grapes until they’re like raisins, then make the wine. It’s so sweet, it’s practically dessert. You could drizzle it on ice cream, and nobody would judge you. Well, maybe a little.
Anyway, they blend all these different sherries together, bottle them up, and boom – you’ve got sherry. From bone dry to liquid candy, it’s all there. And as a whiskey blender, I get to play with the casks these sherries age in. It’s like getting a hand-me-down from a wine legend. And trust me, that hand-me-down adds some serious flavor to whiskey.
Sherry – Some Additional Sources: